层联组织缂丝作品的探究

A Probe into Multi-layer K'ossu

文章设计的缂丝作品,组织选用四层表里交换组织,经纬纱采用纯棉色纱,格形图案是通过矩形以及四边形的重组与变换,呈现规则矩形的颜色用多层织物表里换层产生,呈现不规则四边形用缂丝技法产生。在4层面料上每层分别进行缂织,在同幅作品上展现出不同颜色、不同图案的抽象立体效果,工艺制作技法难度大,变化丰富。织品在制造过程中局部填充,层与层之间填入蓬松材料,具有强烈三维立体感制作的产品立体饱满,实现了平面与立体的有机组合,作品极富审美情趣。

In this paper,a k’ossu work(silk tapestry)was designed by using4-layer surface and inner layer exchange weave,with colored pure cotton yarn used for both warp and weft.The check pattern was obtained through reorganization and alternation of rectangles and squares,in which,the colored regular rectangles were generated from surface and inner layer exchange,while the irregular squares from k’ossu weaving technique.The k’ossu work is featured by difficult weaving technique and rich variations.During the weaving process,fluffy material can be locally filled between different layers to add strong three-dimensional effect to the product,form a rational combination of plain and three-dimensional effects and make the product full of aesthetic tastes.