羊毛牛仔面料的开发及其性能研究

Development and property study on wool denim fabric

从纱线选择和制备、织造、后整理、成衣水洗工艺等方面探讨了羊毛牛仔面料的开发,测试分析了羊毛牛仔面料和纯棉牛仔面料的力学指标以及水洗后的织物风格。结果表明,采用32 tex纯棉单纱和32 tex纯毛单纱的合股纱作为经纱和纬纱,选择3/1右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺生产的新型羊毛牛仔面料,其强力及尺寸稳定性与纯棉牛仔面料持平,且水洗后尺寸稳定,既保留了羊毛面料柔软顺滑的手感,又保持了传统牛仔面料的外观风格,达到了预期的设计效果,进一步证明了羊毛牛仔面料开发的可行性。

This paper discusses the development of wool denim fabric from the aspects of yarn selection,warp preparation,weaving,finishing and washing process,and compares the relevant mechanical indexes and the fabric handle after washing of wool denim fabric and cotton denim fabric.There is a new wool denim fabric which uses ply yarn of32tex pure cotton single yarn and32tex pure wool single yarn as warp and weft yarn,with3/1right twill weave and using special finishing process.The results show that the strength and dimensional stability of this new wool denim fabric and cotton denim fabric is similar.At the same time,the wool denim fabric has excellent dimensional stability after washing.It retains not only the softy and smooth of wool fabric,but also the appearance of traditional denim fabric.The design achieves the expected design effect,and demonstrates the feasibility of wool denim fabric development.