近代上海女式红帮裁缝时装制作源流考

A Study on the Origin and Development of the Tailoring of Women's Western Style Fashion in Modern Shanghai

本文基于一手史料,深入研究上海本帮裁缝转型而成的女式红帮裁缝群体。分析中国近代女式红帮裁缝的缘起、分布与组织机构。重点从时装设计、制版、工艺特点等方面研究上海女式红帮裁缝对中国近现代时装业的促成。即造型、面料、色彩的时新,量尺寸、剪裁、试样、缝制、检验五大制衣环节的革新,以及实现加工足料、永不走样的十项工艺细节创新。

This paper,based on the primary documents,is an in-depth study on women’s western style fashion tailors in Shanghai,who transformed from tailors for traditional clothes.It analyses the origin,distribution and organization of this group of people,and focuses on how they contributed to China’s modern fashion industry from aspects of design,pattern making,process features,among others,i.e.,how the ten innovations in details for well-processed,up-to-date fashions have been achieved through updates in modeling,fabrics and colors,and innovation in the five processes of measurement,cutout,sampling,making and test.