丹麦皇家歌剧院杂记

Notes of Royal Danish Opera House

落地窗外,是黑木条铺就的宽敞、无栏的露台。露台下,海水墨蓝,泛着波儿。海鸟似乎都去别处觅食了,眼前景致宁静。偶见一只白天鹅,优雅地,任自己在波心荡漾着。哥本哈根的当地人喜爱坐在落地窗里的小圆桌前,一边品着热咖啡,一边温和地聊天。游人则大都在露台上踱步、观景、留影——那儿也是眺望丹麦皇家歌剧院的好去处。这方露台,是丹麦皇家戏剧院建筑群的一部分,它与歌剧院直线距离不过400米,但中间隔着一片海。若想从这头去那头,最便捷的方法就是乘坐水上公交——一种小型客船,如画对角线般,直直地,斜渡过去。每逢海那边的歌剧院晚上有演出时,戏剧院露台一侧的渡口就会增开一班渡船,在演出前的一个多小时里一趟趟地将观众载至对岸;待演出结束后,再把他们载回来——也就是哥本哈根城中心的这一边。而在歌剧院那边下船后,只需步行几十米就到了剧院入口处的前坪。前坪地面所铺设的花岗岩,据说是从中国进口的。究竟是否,难以考证,但花岗岩耐磨的特性,用来铺就露天地面是再合适不过的了。

On the other side of downtown Copenhagen is the Royal Danish Opera House, an institution that is run by the government. But the opera house was donated by a private organization, the A.P. Moller and Chastine Mc-Kinney Moller Foundation. Without any public bidding, Moller directly invited Henning Larsen to lead the design. As one of the most prestigious architects in the country, the public building is also one of the most expensive in Denmark's history.