传统达斡尔族荷包色彩之紫红色探析

Analysis of purple red color on the traditional Daur embroidered pouch

文章对内蒙古莫旗达斡尔民族博物馆馆藏的25件荷包进行了采样研究,选取8个疑似植物染色荷包的16种紫红色系色彩进行复原实验。通过定位和对比研究,得到了色彩的L*、a*、b*、c*值范围。确认了可行的染色材料为苏木和红花,染色工艺为苏木直接染、前媒染和红花同后媒染。研究结果表明:通过调整染液质量分数、媒染剂和酸碱度,可以派生出多种紫红色调。使用苏木直接染可复原1种色彩,前媒染可复原8种色彩;使用红花染材可复原7种色彩,复原色差均小于4,达到了复原研究的目的。

Twenty five pieces of embroidered pouches collected from Molidawa Daur National Museum in Inner Mongolia were analyzed.Among them,eight embroidered pouches which might be dyed with vegetable dyes were chosen.Sixteen purplish red colors were selected for the recovery experiment.The range of L*,a*,b*and c*value of colors were obtained through positioning and comparative study.The feasible dyes were confirmed to be sappanwood and safflower.The dyeing process was as follows:direct dyeing with sappanwood,pre-mordant dyeing,and post-mordant dyeing.The results showed that a variety of purple-red colors were obtained by adjusting the dye concentration,the mordant types and the pH value.One color could be recovered by direct dyeing with sappanwood,while eight colors could be recovered by pre-mordant dyeing.Seven colors could be recovered by safflower dyeing.The color difference to the collected colors was less than four which reached the purpose of recovery research.