近代吴文化地区新式婚礼中女性婚服特征分析

Feature analysis of women's wedding dresses in new-style weddings in the Wu culture region in modern times

为进一步明晰吴文化城镇地区新式婚礼中女性婚服的特征,通过对近代期刊资料的梳理与统计,并结合近代名人日记、小说进行比对,共收集吴文化地区结婚照片368张。分析结果表明:1859—1949年,吴文化地区女性婚服风格覆盖率以改良式为主;女性婚服发展经历了单一性、混合性与多样性的发展阶段,并且每一发展阶段都形成代表性、制式化的服饰搭配。女性婚服总体风格以淡雅、细腻为主,服装廓形种类紧跟西式流行款式,对外来文化的接受度较高。婚服颜色倾向于淡色组合,传统色彩等级逐渐减弱。图案主要以细枝叶的植物花草图案为主,呈现出散点式、满铺式的图案分布特征。

To further clarify the features of wedding dresses in new-style weddings in cities and towns of the Wu culture region,the author sorted out and made a statistical analysis of modern journals and periodicals as well as conducted a comparison in combination with diaries of celebrities and novels in modern times to collect 368 wedding photos in total in the Wu culture region.The analysis results indicate that wedding dresses in the Wu culture region were mainly of modified styles from 1859 to 1949;the development of wedding dresses went through the stages of unitary styles,mixed styles and diversified styles,in each of which there were also representative regular ways of matching.In general,wedding dresses were in simple,elegant and delicate styles,and the silhouettes kept up with popular western styles,showing a high level of acceptance of foreign cultures.The colors of wedding dresses tended to combinations of light colors,while traditional colors were gradually reduced.Besides,patterns of flowers and plants with thin stems and leaves were mainly used to decorate wedding dresses,showing the distribution features of scattering and covering.