基于非遗调查的江浙地区绞经织物工艺传承与发展

Inheritance and development of warp twisted fabric process in Jiangsu and Zhejiang area based on intangible cultural heritage investigation

通过对江浙地区现存绞经织物非遗项目的走访调查,发现绞经织物传承至今分化为杭罗、四经绞罗和纱罗三类,文章探讨了该分化的历史原因及未来的发展思路。研究发现,江浙地区历史绞经织物的分化始于唐代,完成于清代之前;其分化的主要原因来自于历史发展过程中的工艺淘汰和收益限制,当今工艺传承的特殊性进一步固化了分化的结果;最后针对工艺传承的现状从纺织非遗生态圈的建立、技艺传承平台的完善和文化推广与产业化开发协同机制三方面提出了解决对策,为绞经织物技艺传承和纺织类非遗的未来发展提供思路。

Through the investigation of the existing intangible cultural heritage warp twisted fabric in Jiangsu and Zhejiang area,it was found that warp twisted fabrics are divided into three types:Hangzhou leno,four-end leno and jacquard leno.The historical reasons of differentiation and future development were analyzed in detail.The findings showed that the differentiation began in the Tang dynasty and was completed before the Qing dynasty.The main reasons for its differentiation are process elimination and income restriction in historical development,and the particularity of the inheritance further solidified the results of differentiation.At last,recommendations were proposed for warp twisted fabric from three aspects:the establishment of textile non-relict biosphere,the improvement of art inheritance platform andcultural promotion and industrialization development cooperation mechanism.This paper proposed thoughts for inheritance of warp twisted fabric technology and future development of intangible cultural heritage-textiles.