豫皖交界地区传统绣花鞋制作工艺研究

Research on the production process of traditional folk embroidered shoes at the boundary between Henan and Anhui

针对豫皖交界地区的绣花鞋进行实地考察,对豫皖地区的绣花鞋形成工艺进行总结。主要包括民间传统绣花鞋的"千层鞋底"制作工艺过程、纳鞋底针法及鞋帮制作工艺研究。通过调研发现该地区的纳鞋针法主要有枣花菱形和单针菱形两种形式,保留的绱鞋方式主要有明绱、暗绱和翻绱三种形式,使用最多的是明绱;刺绣方式主要包括剪纸贴花绣法和平针绣法两种形式;绣花鞋图案来源主要根据民间风俗和对自然界景物的抽象化演变而来。这为中原地区的绣花鞋成型工艺提供完整的理论依据,帮助中国传统手工业发展与文化传承,侧面反映了豫皖地区的民俗风情与文化交流。

A field survey of embroidered shoes in the border area of Henan and Anhui was carried out,and the formation process of embroidered shoes in Henan and Anhui areas was summarized,mainly including the production process of the“thousand-layer soles”of traditional folk embroidery shoes,the needling method of sole making method and the production process of the upper.Through investigations,it was found that the needling methods of sole making in the region mainly include jujube rhombus and single-needle rhombus.The stitching methods of the upper and the sole mainly include open stitching,concealed stitching and overturned stitching.The most used one is open stitching.The embroidery modes mainly include paper-cut applique embroidery and flat needle embroidery.The source of embroidered shoe patterns is mainly from folk customs and the abstraction of natural scenery.This provides a complete theoretical basis for the embroidery shoe forming process in the Central Plains,helps the development of traditional Chinese handicraft industry and cultural heritage and reflects the folk customs and cultural exchanges in the Henan and Anhui regions.