几何图案在全成形毛衫中的设计与工艺

The Design and Process of Geometric Pattern in Fully-fashioned Sweater

为提高设计师全成形毛衫图案设计能力,文章以构成几何图案的典型组织为例,借助日本岛精四针床电脑横机,研究了全成形毛衫构成几何图案的两种类型和特点,探讨其在全成形中不同的工艺实现。研究表明:以组织结构为基础的几何图案在全成形毛衫中最易实现,但图案表现效果不明显;以色彩变化为基础的几何图案包括条纹、嵌花、提花等在全成形毛衫中图案效应较好,但编织工艺复杂。设计全成形毛衫几何图案时必须考虑不同类型编织方法的外在表现与内在工艺。

In order to improve the designer’s pattern design ability in fully-fashioned sweater,the paper takes the typical stitches that constitute geometric patterns as an example.With the aid of four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of Shima Seiki,two different types’stitches that constitute geometric patterns in the fully-fashioned sweaters and related characteristics were studied.Result indicated that the geometric pattern based on the stitches is realized best in the full-fashioned sweater,however,its pattern is not obvious;while the geometric pattern based on the color change,i.e.,stripe,intarsia,jacquard,has good pattern effect in the full-fashioned sweater,but its knitting process is complicated.Thus,it is necessary to consider the pattern effect and different types of knitting methods when designing the geometric pattern of fully-fashioned sweaters.