宋代戏剧服饰与时尚——以“四方宋代铭文杂剧砖雕”为例

Drama Costumes and Fashion in the Song Dynasty:A Case Study of Four Carving Bricks of Zaju in the Song Dynasty

郑州市华夏文化艺术博物馆藏分别刻有"杨揔惜""丁都赛""薛子小""凹脸儿"名字的四方宋代杂剧砖雕(图1),它是宋代杂剧繁荣兴盛的真实写照,不仅呈现了杂剧演员演出时的服饰穿戴状况,而且图像的背后影射出其时的社会时尚风气。以四方宋代铭文杂剧砖雕演员所着服饰为例,透过演员的服饰穿戴等诸多内容,可以管窥宋代的时风,主要包括三个方面:一是商品经济繁荣下的宋杂剧女扮男装演出时尚之风;二是流行时尚风气下的宋杂剧首服簪花之风;三是民族文化交融下的宋与辽、金杂剧服饰相互吸收借鉴时尚之风。诚然,这三方面的内容不能对宋代社会时尚风气包罗万象,但是从某种角度彰显了杂剧演员服饰与宋代社会的密切关系。

The brick carvings of the Song Dynasty Zaju with the names of Yang Bixi,Ding Dusai,Xue Zixiao and Concave Face are inscribed in the collection of the Huaxia Museum of Culture and Art in Zhengzhou City(Fig.1).It is a true portrayal of the prosperity of the Song Dynasty zaju,showing not only the dress condition of the Zaju performers,but also the image behind them.The prevailing fashion of social fashion.Taking the costumes worn by the brick carvers of Sifang Song Dynasty’s inscriptions as an example,we can get a glimpse of the Song Dynasty’s fashion through the costumes and clothing of the actors,which mainly includes three aspects:the fashion of women performing in men’s costumes in Song Zaju under the prosperity of commodity economy;the fashion of hairpin flowers in the first costume of Song Zaju under the fashion;It is the fashion of song,Liao and Jin costumes that draw on each other and draw on fashion from the blend of national culture.Admittedly,these three aspects of content can’t be all-inclusive of the social fashion in Song Dynasty,but from a certain point of view,it highlights the close relationship between the costumes of opera performers and Song Dynasty society.