工布藏族服饰结构的“单位互补算法”

Unit Complementary Algorithm in the Structure of Gongbu Tibetan Costume in Nyingchi Prefecture of Tibet

为了传承西藏林芝地区工布藏族服饰裁剪技艺,本文采用标本与文献二重考证和比较学的研究方法,通过对全套工布服饰进行全息数据采集、测绘和结构图复原实验,发现工布贯首衣和筒裙中均存在"单位互补算法",即排料复原实验中一个单位布幅下实现连裁侧片和分裁侧片的裁剪方法,且该单侧缝工布筒裙的"单位互补算法"形式与其它藏区的单侧缝织锦藏袍如出一辙。"单位互补算法"这一发现不仅在藏族服装结构中具有普遍性,且在汉地古文献《深衣考》中通过"交解"理论得到了文献的印证。工布"单位互补算法"的古老裁剪,始出"节俭",终归"敬物",表现出藏汉文化交流多元一体的特质。这一发现不仅完善了藏族服饰结构系统,并且对整个中华民族服饰结构谱系的建构具有补遗技术史的意义和文献价值。

In order to inherit the techniques of cutting clothes for Gongbu Tibetan costume in Nyingchi Prefecture of Tibet,the paper uses the specimen and the literature and comparative research method,measuring and structural recovery on the full set of Gongbu costume,found that both the tunic and skirt are have“Unit complementary algorithm“,that is,all the side pieces can be cut in a unit cloth,and the form of“unit complementary algorithm”in skirt and brocade robe with single side seam exactly the same.It is proved that it is not only universal in the Tibetan clothing structure,but also proved by the theory of“JiaoJie”in the ancient textbook of the Han Dynasty.The“unit complementary algorithm”of the ancient cut in Gongbu has the meaning of“frugality”and“respect for things”,showing the diversity of cultural exchanges between the Tibetan and Han characteristics.This discovery not only improves the Tibetan clothing structure system,but also has the meaning and literature value of the history of the whole Chinese clothing structure.