摘要
中国古代综蹑织机起源于双轴织机,而双轴织机向综蹑织机流变似乎缺少中间环节。对《东国传丝公主画版》中的"双轴织机"、和田双轴织机、《列女传·鲁敬姜说织》中织机形态进行文献描述研究和考古发现的二维互证,研究得出《东国传丝公主画版》中所谓的双轴织机的论证存在问题,可能并非织机;从地理环境决定技术形态理论出发,作为中国古代双轴织机活态形制的和田织机能否表征中国古代双轴织机还有待商榷;《列女传·鲁敬姜说织》所描述织机为手提综竿式斜织机(笔者假设),此一机型在法国吉美博物馆藏的一斜织机上得到不充分但必要的印证。
Chinese ancient harness-treadle loom originated from double-shaft loom,but the evolvement lacks intermediate processes.We performed descriptive literature research on the forms of the double-shaft loom in Chinese Princess Smuggling Silkworm Eggs woodcut,of Khotan double-shaft loom and of the loom in Biographies of Women in Ancient China-Lu Jingjiang’s Lecture on Weaving.The research demonstrated that the argument identifying the alleged double-shaft loom in that woodcut was unreliable because it was probably not a loom.Starting from the theory that geographical environment decides technical form,it requires more discussions on whether Khotan double-shaft loom,with a flexible form,can represent Chinese ancient double-shaft loom.The author supposed what is mentioned in Biographies of Women in Ancient China-Lu Jingjiang’s Lecture on Weaving is hand-lifting titled loom,which was sufficiently but not necessarily confirmed by a titled loom stored in Musée Guimet in France.
作者
夏克尔.赛塔尔
李强
SAITAER Xiakeer;LI Qiang(College of Textile and Fashion,Xinjiang University,Urumqi 830046,China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第1期103-109,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(17YJCZH079)
新疆大学博士毕业生科研启动基金项目(BS150129)
关键词
综蹑织机
双轴织机
手提综竿式斜织机
东国传丝公主
敬姜说织
harness-treadle loom
double-shaft loom
hand-lifting titled loom
Chinese Princess Smuggling Silkworm Eggs woodcut
Biographies of Women in Ancient China-Lu Jingjiang