汉绣用色的服装时尚化应用研究

Study on Fashion Application based on Color of Han Embroidery

汉绣用色具有艳丽浓烈、丰富鲜明的特点,既追求红火热烈、喜形于色的对比,又讲究和谐统一,它是借鉴和创造时装色彩的最好母体之一。通过对汉绣样本的收集和整理,同时借鉴2011～2018年世界五大时装周中的相关作品对汉绣用色的时尚化进行分析,文章认为:汉绣主要运用了夸张、对比、调和、简练归纳、添加色彩五种配色手法。其中夸张是指对绣品纹样中的造型和色彩进行夸张设计;对比是指在汉绣中常采用的色相对比、明度对比和纯度对比;调和是指将缓和的对比色、相邻的色彩或搭配金银色进行画面色彩调和;简练归纳是指用最简练的色彩归纳纹样的色相;添加色彩是指运用多视角表现汉绣用色的丰富性。运用这五种手法进行服装时尚化设计,可探索汉绣用色与服装时尚化之间的契合点,并实现汉绣用色的新突破。

The Han Embroidery,characterized by the abundance of bright colors in pursuit of both the contrast and integrity of colors,is commonly regarded as one of the best matrices to learn and create fashion colors.Following a collection and collation of the Han Embroidery samples,drawing on the experience of analyzing the fashionable variation of Han Embroidery in the World Five Fashion Weeks from 2011 to 2018,this paper holds that five main color matching techniques are adopted in the Han embroidery:exaggeration,contrast,harmonization,concise induction and color addition.Exaggeration refers to the exaggeration of shapes and colors in embroidery patterns;Contrast refers to the contrast of colors,brightness and purity.Harmonization refers to both the harmonization of mild contrastive colors or adjacent colors,and the collocation of gold and silver.Concise induction refers to the induction of pattern using the simplest color;Color addition refers to the presentation of the abundance of colors in the Han Embroidery from multiple perspectives.The five ways to conduct fashion design can be adopted to explore the match point between Han Embroidery and fashion,thereby meking new breakthroughs of color using in the Han Embroidery.