饮食人类学视野下的赣北“米粑”食俗研究

Study on the Diet Custom of “Miba” in Northern Jiangxi from the Perspective of Anthropology

饮食习俗是传统文化和地方性知识的重要载体,通过考察饮食可以很好地了解当地的文化特征。本文以饮食人类学的视野,研究赣北鄱阳湖地区的米粑食俗。认为它的制作原料和食用方法呈现了当地的自然生态特征,与自然生态相适应是它得以流传至今的重要原因;从制作的时间和缘由中可以看出,在传统的乡民生活中,米粑承担着祭祀祖宗、庆祝感恩以及强化家族社会关系的功能,从中能了解当地社会生活的特征。在当代,技术革新和人口流动导致这种传统食物所携带的地方性知识和传统社会功能在弱化,但地域的拓展使其逐渐成为外地乡民一种乡愁的象征和对家乡集体记忆和认同的文化展品。从对米粑的考察中,可以发现传统饮食习俗与自然生态、当地社会和时代变迁之间的关系。

Diet custom is an important carrier of traditional culture and local knowledge,and the investigation of diet can help to better understand the local cultural characteristics.From the perspective of dietary anthropology,this paper investigates the diet custom of the traditional folk food“Miba(rice pancake)”in Poyang Lake area of northern Jiangxi Province.Its raw materials and eating methods present the local natural ecological characteristics,and its adaptation to the natural ecology is an important reason for its spread to the present day.From the time and origin of its production,it can be found that in the traditional rural life,“Miba”undertakes the functions of sacrificing ancestors,celebrating gratitude and strengthening family social relations,from which we can understand the features of local social life.In contemporary times,technological innovation and population mobility have weakened the local knowledge and traditional social functions carried by this traditional food,but the expansion of the region has gradually made it a symbol of homesickness,a cultural exhibit of collective memory and identity of the homeland.From the investigation of“Miba”,it is easy to find the relationship between diet customs and natural ecology,local society and the changes of the times.