维多利亚经典结构的裁剪设计与应用

THE CUT AND APPLICATION OF TRADITIONAL VICTORIAN COSTUME STRUCTURE

维多利亚结构是欧洲男装发展史上重要的坐标点,也是现代男装结构的始祖。它在世界服装史中具有标志性和经典性,是现代服装设计利用和借鉴最普遍的结构系统,弄清楚维多利亚结构有助于认识现代男装结构系统和裁剪技术的脉络。文章通过对重要英文服装类历史文献的研究整理,发现具有时代印记"维多利亚结构"的衍进在礼服、外套中形成了连裁、鱼省和腰线三个典型的维多利亚结构符号,从而构建了完备的维多利亚结构图谱,还为我们认识现代男装文化生态为什么接受欧洲文明提供了一个关键的格物致知的理由。

The Traditional Victorian Costume Structure is an important coordinate point in the history of menswear in Europe and also the ancestor.It is the iconic and classic in the history of world's garment and the most common structural system used in modern clothing design and reference.Exploring the Traditional Victorian Costume Structure helps to understand the context of modern menswear structural systems and cutting techniques.The article through the study of important English clothing history documents,it has been found that the evolution of the“Traditional Victorian Costume Structure”with the era's mark has formed three typical Victorian symbols in the dresses and coats,including the“cut-in”,“fish”and“waistline”.Constructed a complete traditional Victorian costume structural system.It also provides a key reason for us to understand the modern menswear cultural ecology and accept European civilization.