经纬双弹机织免烫衬衫面料的工艺技术研究

Study on technology of wash and wear four-way stretch woven fabrics

针对经纬双弹机织衬衫面料经向弹性偏小及免烫性差等主要加工难题,研究了纺纱及染整加工工艺。结果表明,采用扭妥纺纺纱方式,热定型温度选用200℃,车速30 m/min,超喂20%;丝光碱用量选用210 g/L;免烫整理树脂用量100 g/L,催化剂用量25 g/L,纤维保护剂用量30 g/L,焙烘温度150℃,车速50 m/min。成品免烫性可达3.2级,经向弹性达13%以上,纬向弹性达20%以上,断裂强力达30 Lb以上。开发的四面弹面料可满足人们对品质和服用性能的需求,有着广阔的推广应用前景。

In view of the main processing problems of four-way stretch woven shirt fabrics,such as low warp elasticity and poor ironing resistance,the spinning and dyeing and finishing processes were studied.The results showed that it was better to choose new-torque yarn.The best process was confirmed as following:heat setting temperature 200℃,speed 30 m/min,over-feed 20%,dosage of base 210 g/L,dosage of resin 100 g/L,dosage of catalyst 25 g/L,baking craft 150℃,speed 50 m/min.The DP grade of product couldreached 3.2 grade,the warp and weft elasticity were more than 13%and 20%,and the tensile strength were over 30 Lb.The product could meet the customers’demand for the texture and comfortableness of fabric,which indicated that it would have a broad application prospect in the future.