中国传统柞蚕丝织物紫色调染色工艺研究

Study on the purple dyeing process of Chinese traditional tussah silk fabric

苏木是古代紫色调的主要染材。采用水煎法萃取苏木色素,在pH=9条件下对柞蚕丝织物进行染色工艺探讨,对所得颜色特征值进行色度表征,确定了苏木紫色调染色工艺的显色规律及色彩L、a、b、c值的范围。结果表明:在pH=9条件下,直接染呈纯度略低的紫红色调,前媒染呈纯度较高的紫红色调,同媒染呈纯度较高的紫色调,后媒染呈纯度较低的紫红色调。其中,同媒染染紫色调价值最大,苏木同媒染同时变量较单一变量所染紫色调的范围更大,在一定程度上可以节约媒染剂用量。

Sappanwood is the main dyeing material of ancient purple color.The hematoxylin pigment was extracted by water decoction,and the different dyeing processes were carried out on tussah silk fabric under pH=9.The color characteristic values of the husk silk fabrics were characterized by chromaticity,and the color development rule and color L,a,b,c of the sappanwood purple dyeing process were determined.The results showed that under the condition of pH=9,the direct dyeing showed a slightly lower purity of purple-red,the pro-mordant showed a higher purity purple-red tone,and the mordant dyeing in one-bath showed a higher purity purple tone,and the post-mordant showed a lower purity purple-red tone.Among them,the purple color of the mordant dyeing in one-bath had the highest value,and the range of the mordant dyeing was larger than that of the single variable,so the mordant dosage could be saved to some extent.