从Viktor&Rolf秀场服饰看当下服装造型要素“体”的创新应用

Through the Analysis of Viktor&Rolf's Show to See the Innovative Application of “Body” Fashion Modeling Elements

本文是关于服装造型点、线、面、体四要素中"体"要素应用手法的研究与探讨。在服装上常规"体"要素表现形式的已有研究基础上,搜索大量图片、资料进行总结、归类和分析,发现"体"要素应用的三个阶段或层次:"纯粹外形线"设计思想阶段,"夸张"和"强调"设计思想阶段以及Viktor&Rolf品牌服饰中的"体"要素应用的新思路。并进一步总结归纳出Viktor&Rolf品牌服装设计师对服装造型要素"体"创新应用的五个方法:与3D立体造型装置相结合;俄罗斯套娃——运用叠加法增大体积感;通过切割、镂空来强调"体"造型;从平面到立体中获得意外的"体"感;隐意视错形成立体感服装造型。本文中对于当下服装设计中"体"要素创新应用的研究是对现代服装设计方法研究的深入与补充。

This article is about the research and discussion about the "body" elements application, which is a part of four elements of clothing modeling: point, line, surface and body. On the basis of the existing research findings on the regular expression of "body" elements in clothing, we searched for a large number of pictures, By summarizing, classifying and analyzing the data, we found the "pure shape line" design thinking stage, the "exaggeration" and "emphasis" design thinking stage, and the "body" elements of the Viktor & Rolf, which are applied with new ideas. And the article further summarizes five innovative methods of Viktor & Rolf’s designers for the application of "body" are: combining with 3D stereoscopic modeling device;Russian Dolls increase the sense of volume by superposition;emphasizes "body" modeling by cutting and hollowing out with unexpected "body" feeling from plane to three-dimensions;and forms three-dimensional garment modeling by implicit visual mistake. The research on the innovative application of "body" elements in current fashion design is an in-depth and supplementary study on modern fashion design methods.