织物弯曲性与悬垂性测试新方法

A new testing method for fabric bending & draping behavior

织物弯曲性和悬垂性是影响服装外观的重要性能,其测试目前是分开进行的,文章旨在寻找可将其合二为一的方法。首先测试25块织物的弯曲长度和悬垂系数,然后用自行设计的M形测试法提取新的指标,并将其与弯曲长度和悬垂系数进行对比。研究表明:新方法中的指标均与弯曲长度具有较好的相关性,相关性由大到小依次是柔悬系数、横向投影宽度和纵向投影高度,且柔悬系数与悬垂系数也具有较好的相关性。新方法可同时测试织物弯曲性和悬垂性,即利用1块试样可得到2组数据,且可表达织物在任意一个方向上的悬垂性,尤其适合风衣、休闲裤等有方向性要求的织物。

Fabric bending and draping behaviors are important properties that influence apparel appearance, and until now they are tested separately. This paper aims to find out a method that can combine them into one. First of all, the bending length and draping coefficients of 25 fabrics were tested. Then the self-designed M-shaped method was used to obtain the new indexes which were compared with bending length and draping coefficients. Results showed that the indexes gained by the new method all had good correlations with the bending length, and the correlations from large to small were soft & draping coefficient, horizontal projection width, and vertical projection height. Moreover, the soft & draping coefficient also had a good correlation with the draping coefficient. Thus, the new method can test fabric bending & draping behaviors . In other words, 2 groups of data can be gained by one sample. In addition, the new method could express the fabric draping performance in any direction, especially suitable for wind coat, slacks and other fabrics which have specific requirements.