鞠衣史论——传统命妇服制的演变与思考

History of Ju Yi: Insight into Development of Clothing System of Ladies with Royally Granted Titles

本文通过对传统文献与出土实物对比研究,梳理了鞠衣这一贯穿两千多年中国传统礼仪服饰的传承线路,阐述周式鞠衣与汉式鞠衣不同的流传情况。文章将鞠衣按照使用功能和形制在历史上从先秦至明末划分了三个阶段,从不同阶层、不同功用两方面对鞠衣的历史与形制进行考释。

By comparing traditional literatures with unearthed artifacts,the author combs the heritage line of Ju Yi,a traditional Chinese ceremonial dress,that has been used for more than 2,000 years.Furthermore,the author elaborates the different circulation status of Zhou-style Ju Yi and Han-style Ju Yi.According to functions and shape system,the article divides the development of Ju Yi into three stages from a historical point of view.From the Pre-Qin period to the end of the Ming Dynasty,the history and the shape system of Ju Yi are studied and explained through classes and functions.