“深簷胡帽”:一种女真帽式盛衰变异背后的族群与文化变迁

’A Nomadic Hat with Broad Brim Design’:A Type of Jurchen Hat Going in and out of Fashion along with The Changes of The Ethnicity and Culture

明朝洪武元年发布的禁革“胡服”诏令,曾经专门提到元代流行的“深簷胡帽”。综合考察蒙元时代的各类资料可知,这种具有深刻时代特征的帽式,即是“幔笠”(或名方笠、四角笠子)。幔笠本是金代女真服饰,后来被蒙古人接受,并在其裹挟下遍及中国、高丽、中亚乃至波斯地区,使用人群亦遍及各个社会阶层。元明鼎革之后,它被明朝和朝鲜儒家士大夫视作蒙元“胡化”的重要象征,从而淡出历史舞台。幔笠具有鲜明的族群和时代特征,但迄今为止的蒙元服饰研究,却将其与明代帽式混同。有关幔笠的研究,不仅有助于澄清服饰史的误解,厘定诸多重要图像资料的时代,而且幔笠在东亚流行与消亡,也见证了煩赫一时的“蒙古风”的兴衰,以及东亚儒家知识分子“华夷”意识消长的历史。

A type of nomadic hat with broad brim design prevailing in the Yuan dynasty, called Shen Yan Hu Mao in Chinese pinyin, specifically mentioned in the Prohibition of Hu Clothing imperially ordered in the 1st year of Emperor Hongwu (洪武)of the Ming dynasty, was originally worn by the Jurchen people of the Jin dynasty who used to call it ‘Man Li' or ‘Fang Li’ and ‘Si Jiao Li Zi' before it took popularity among the Mongolian and the people of all classes over Korea, central Asia and Persia areas. However, with the change from the Yuan to the Ming dynasty it got gradually ignored as the symbol of the Hu culture in the eyes of the Confucian scholar-bureaucrat of the Ming dynasty and Korea. Since it is always confused with the the type of hat of the Ming dynasty, it is significant to track back the history by design and image materials to work out the puzzling problems. The ‘Man Li' hat going in and out of fashion in the East Asia was accompanied with the rise and down of the ‘Mongolian Wind’ and the ebb and flow of the Thought of Yi-Xia among the Confucian intellectuals over the East Asia.