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清代军戎服饰系统及文化意涵

The Research on the Military Uniform System in the Qing Dynasty and its Cultural Significance
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摘要 清代先祖以骑射武功统御天下,故军戎服饰于清代而言意义重大,然因清代军戎服饰属于非主流服饰品类,故鲜有系统完整的学术成果出现。文章主要基于对清代军戎服饰的标本考据,运用文献研究法进行系统梳理,从中发现清代军戎服饰主要分为甲胄与行服两大体系,又通过对其形制、材质、功能性与历史演变等方面的分析,发现清代军戎服饰在根植于满族骑射传统的基础上,也融合了汉文化的思想与汉族服饰传统。它不仅是满族尚武精神的物质表达载体,也是中华服饰文化多元一体、和而不同的真实写照。同时,对清代军戎服饰系统的解读也有助于研究清代军事史、服饰史,继承中华民族传统服饰文化,促进民族文化的历史认同。 The ancestors of the Qing Dynasty conquered ancient China through their martial arts,so the military uniform was of great significance to the Qing Dynasty.However,because the military uniform of the Qing Dynasty fell into the non-mainstream clothing category,there were few systematic and complete academic achievements in this field.Based on the textual research of the military uniform in the Qing Dynasty,this paper used the literature research method to sort out the uniform system and found that the military uniform of the Qing Dynasty was mainly divided into two systems-the armor system and hunting costumes’system.Through the analysis of the armor and hunting costumes’structure,their materials,function and historical evolution,it also found that the Qing Dynasty military uniform was rooted in the Manchu riding tradition,and combined the Han culture and the Han costume tradition.It not only represents the Manchu military spirit,but also embodies the diversity of Chinese traditional costume culture.At the same time,the interpretation of the Qing Dynasty military uniform system is also helpful for us to study the military history and costume history of the Qing Dynasty and can promote our cultural and historical identity.
作者 郑宇婷 刘瑞璞 ZHENG Yu-ting;LIU Rui-pu(School of Clothing Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029 China)
出处 《服饰导刊》 2019年第2期1-7,共7页 Fashion Guide
基金 北京服装学院博士项目中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新研究(NHFZ20170079)
关键词 清代军戎服饰 甲胄 行服 尚武精神 Military uniformin the Qing Dynasty Armor Hunting costumes Military spirit
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