明初的舆服整顿与明末的舆服乱象——以《醒世姻缘传》中的描写为例

The Chariot and Clothing Institution: Its Reorganization in Early Ming and Chaos of Transgressions in Late Ming——A Case Study of Descriptions in XingshiYinyuanZhuan

出于彻底复古华夏衣冠和严格辨明阶级分层的两大目的,明代洪武皇帝设计了一系列繁复的舆服制度。然而至晚明,由于金钱元素的冲击,舆服制度对四民、嫡庶、贵贱等人身等级的分际已经规范不力,在舆服世界里出现了多种逾制乱象。以《醒世姻缘传》的文本为例,可以探究明初舆服制度设计的初始动机,同时也探讨其之后崩溃的原因。

To achieve the goals of a thorough restoration of ancient Chinese dressing and a clear distinction in social hierar chies, Emperor Hongwu designed an intricate series of institutions collectively known as Chariot and Clothing. However, by the time of late Ming, due to the impact of monetary elements, it had lost control in demarcating the social boundaries of the four so cial strata, the legitimate wife and the concubine, and the noble and the lowly. In the world of the chariot and clothing system, chaos of transgressions abounded. Taking the texts of XingshiYinyuanZhuan as an example, this paper explores the initiatives for the design of chariot and clothing in the early Ming and discusses the causes of its collapse later.