海上名妓:晚清女性服饰时尚的引领者——以《九尾龟》为考察中心

The Courtesan of Shanghai: The Pioneer of Fashion Dress in Late Qing Dynasty——A Case Study of the Courtesan Novel Nine Tailed Tortoise

就《九尾龟》小说所集中呈现的妓女服饰形象,探讨晚清妓女尤其是上海开埠后的名妓引领女性生活时尚的沿袭及流变。从19世纪60年代起到20世纪初,上海妓女凭借五方杂居、华洋并处的地域优势,其在公众场合的行为举止、穿衣打扮,乃至室内陈设及用具,都成为关注重点。尽管其中掺杂着道德瑕疵和人们不怀好意的诟病,但不可否认的是,职业妓女特殊的边缘性社会地位相应给予了她们一定的自由度和空间性,甚至不受清代一些服饰禁令的约束;而勾栏生涯的职业要求,也同时促使她们在迎奉男性审美趣味及互相的竞争中使尽浑身解数。妓女形象,尤其是名妓的形象,在传统与现代、东方与西方杂糅的文化境遇和生活场域中扮演着时尚的引领者和风向标,成为上海这座新奇、洋派的"大魔都"无可争议、不容忽视的"新偶像",并成为晚清狭邪小说着力描绘的文学形象之一。

From 1860s to early twentieth century, courtesans in Shanghai, by the geographical advantage of living in mixture with all kinds of people, either local or foreign, had become the focus in behavior, clothing, indoor furnishings, and utensils, despite the moral flaws and denounce from the people. It is undeniable that the special marginalized social status of the courtesans gave them certain corresponding freedom and space, and was not even bound by some clothing prohibitions of the Qing Dynasty. The professional requirements of courtesans also prompted them to be attractive to meet the men’s aesthetic taste. The image of courtesans, especially the famous courtesans, played the leading vanguard and vane of fashion in the circumstances of traditional and modern,Eastern and western mixed cultures,and became the undisputable“new idol”of the magic city of Shanghai and one of the protagonists in courtesan novels of the late Qing Dynasty.This paper,based on the courtesan’s clothing in the novel of Nine Tailed Tortoises, tries to discuss the evolution of fashion led by the courtesans in late Qing Dynasty, especially the renowned courtesans after the opening of Shanghai port.