仪纶纱线的性能及其织物的起毛起球性能评价

Properties of Yilon yarns and anti-pilling performance evaluation of Yilon fabrics

以棉纤维和常规涤纶作为对比试样,研究了仪纶、不同纺纱方式的混纺及纯纺仪纶纱线的性能,探究了仪纶的物理性能、纺纱方式、混纺比例、织造方式等对仪纶织物起毛起球的影响,并评价了纯纺和混纺仪纶织物的起毛起球性能。结果表明:对于同一种纤维,紧密纺纱线的捻度高于环锭纺纱线,紧密赛络纺的纱线捻度高于赛络纺纱线;仪纶可以通过混纺棉的方式,以增加其纱线的捻度;对于纯纺纱线,仪纶纱线的毛羽指数高于纯涤纶纱线的毛羽指数;对于仪纶混纺纱线,棉纤维混纺比例越高,纱线的毛羽状况越好;相同混纺比例的纱线随着纺纱方式的逐渐优化,其毛羽指数H值逐渐减小,毛羽状况逐渐好转,赛络纺好于环锭纺,赛络紧密纺好于赛络纺;仪纶纯纺织物起毛起球主观评价等级一般为2.5～3.0级,纯涤纶织物0.5～1.0级,纯棉织物0.5～1.0级,质量分数65%仪纶/质量分数35%棉混纺织物随着纺纱方式的不断优化,主观评价等级不断提高,质量分数60%棉/质量分数40%仪纶混纺织物随着纺纱方式不断优化,主观评价等级不再变化,与纯棉织物等级一致;环锭纺纯仪纶织物抗起毛起球效果表现不佳,可以采用与棉混纺的方式,当棉纤维质量分数35%时,优化纺纱方式即可达到纯棉织物的等级。

Taking cotton fibre and conventional polyester fiber as contrast samples,the properties of Yilon yarn,blended yarn by different spinning methods and pure Yilon yarns were studied.The effects of the physical properties,spinning methods,blending ratio and weaving methods of Yilon yarns on the pilling and fuzzing of Yilon fabrics were investigated.The fuzzing and pilling properties of Yilon fabrics of pure yarn and blended yarn were evaluated.The results showed that for the same fiber,the twist of compact spun yarn was higher than that of ring spun yarn and the twist of compact Siro spun yarn was higher than that of Siro spun yarn;the twist of Yilon yarn could be increased by blending with cotton;for pure yarn,the hairiness index of Yilon yarn was higher than that of pure polyester fiber;for Yilon blended yarn,the higher the blending ratio of cotton fiber,the better the hairiness of the yarn;the hairiness index H value gradually decreased and the hairiness of the yarn became better with the optimization of spinning method at the same blending ratio;the hairiness of the yarn by Siro spinning method was better than that of the yarn by ring spinning method and the hairiness of the yarn by Siro compact spinning method was better than that of the yarn by Siro spinning method;the fuzzing and pilling grade of Yilon pure fabric was generally subjectively evaluated as 2.5-3.0,pure polyester fabric 0.5-1.0,pure cotton fabric 0.5-1.0,and the blended fabric of 65%Yilon and 35%cotton by mass fraction had the growing subjective evaluation grade with the optimization of spinning method when the blended fabric of 60%cotton and 40%Yilon by mass fraction had the subjective evaluation grade consistent with the grade of pure cotton fabrics and no longer changing with the optimization of spinning method;and the ring spun Yilon pure fabric had poor anti-pilling effect,but the subjective evaluation grade could reach the grade of cotton fiber by optimizing the spinning method when it was blended with 35%cotton by mass fraction.