全成形毛衫局部编织原理及其应用

Principle and application of partial knitting on fully formed sweater

为更好地实现全成形毛衫局部三维立体成形,以四针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统为依托,重点对局部编织在全成形毛衫上的应用进行研究。将局部编织工艺按照编织方法分为常规局部编织和按比例局部编织,探讨局部编织在肩斜、领部、下摆、挂肩以及平袖山部位的应用。结果表明:常规局部编织可形成光滑平整的肩部斜线形状、前后领深弧线、不规则下摆;按比例局部编织是全成形毛衫独有的编织方式,主要应用于挂肩和平袖山编织,可用于维持筒状编织平衡和实现袖子、大身的连接,形成存在一定高度差的筒状编织物;采用局部编织工艺可提高全成形毛衫的舒适性和美观性,也为毛衫款式开发提供思路,满足当代消费者的个性化需求。

In order to better realize the partial three-dimensional forming of fully formed sweater, the application of the partial knitting principle on fully formed sweater based on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3 was researched emphatically. The partial knitting process was divided into normal partial knitting and partial knitting in proportion according to the knitting methods. The application of partial knitting in shoulder slope, neck, lower hem, hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top was discussed. The results show that the normal partial knitting can be applied to form the oblique line shape with smooth and smooth outer edge, front and back neck drop curve, irregular lower hem. The partial knitting in proportion is the unique knitting method of fully formed sweater. It is mainly applied in the process of hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top. It is applied to maintain a tubular balance and realize the connection of sleeves and body and a tube fabric with a certain height difference is formed at last. The adoption of partial knitting technology can improve the comfort and beauty of fully formed sweater, and also provide ideas for the design development of sweater, so as to meet the personalized needs of contemporary consumers.