民国丝绸贸易的创新与障碍——以抗战前美亚织绸厂为例

The Innovation and Obstacles of Silk Trade in the Republic of China: Focusing on Mayar Silk Mills before the War of Resistance

美亚织绸厂是民国时期代表性民族企业之一,在组织结构、企业管理等方面均有革新。在蔡声白领导之下,美亚锐意进取,在国内丝织行业中率先推动建立了免税关栈工厂、商业承兑汇票等生产经营模式,并开创性地通过影片展示、时装表演、有奖竞赛、全国巡展等诸多方式打造自身品牌,形成了遍布全国、兼顾海外的多区分层销售网络,产品不仅引领国内风尚,更远销欧、美、南洋、印度等市场,成为全面抗战爆发前著名的"国货之王"。但受制于动荡时代的种种制度与非制度障碍,美亚的市场开拓备尝艰辛,其盛衰历程不仅体现了中国近代丝绸贸易的曲折发展,同时也可管窥民国社会经济的转型与变化。

Mayar Silk Mills was one of the representative national enterprises in the Republic of China period. It had taken many innovations in organizational structure,enterprise management and so on. Under the leadership of Cai Shengbai,Mayar introduced production and business models such as duty-free factory and trade acceptance draft in the domestic silk industry. It also developed its own brand through films,fashion shows,prize-winning contests and roving exhibitions. Mayar ’s products could not only lead domestic fashion,but also sell to European,American,Southeast Asia,India and other markets,making it become the"king of national goods"before the Anti-Japanese War. Due to many institutional and non-institutional barriers,Mayar‘s market expansion encountered serious difficulties. Its prosperity and decline not only reflected the tortuous development of China’s modern silk trade,but also examined the social transformation and changes in the Republic of China.