局部编织工艺在全成形毛衫中的设计与应用

Design and application of partial knitting technology in full-fashioned garment

为进一步提高设计师开发全成形毛衫款式的能力,以四针床全成形电脑横机为依托,重点阐述局部编织工艺的设计应用和编织原理。利用局部编织工艺形成斜线结构和弧形结构,通过全成形毛衫的编织实例,分析其设计重点和编织工艺,结合局部编织工艺编织斜线结构和弧形结构具有较强成形优势的特点,提出将其用于全成形毛衫的肩部、不对称下摆、喇叭裙接片、领部以及腰部的结构设计。运用局部编织工艺可以设计开发出结构优美、款式丰富的全成形毛衫,为全成形毛衫的款式开发拓展思路。

In order to improve the ability of full-fashioned garment designer, based on the four-bed full-fashioned computer-ized flat knitting machine, the design and application of the partial knitting technology and iTSworking principle were mainly described.Partial knitting technology was used to form the oblique line structure and the arc-shaped structure, the design focus and the knitting process were analyzed through the example of whole garment.Combined with the characteristics of strong structure formation on knitting slope and arch structures, the structural design of the shoulders, unsymmetrical hem, flare skirts, collar and waist of the fully formed sweater was proposed. The application of partial knitting technology allows the design and development of fully-formed, fully-styled, fully-formed sweaters, which can develop and expand ideas for full-fashioned garment.