从宋锦的时代变迁看传统服饰的传承与发展

Inheritance and development of traditional costume from the change of Song brocade

从设计三要素之花型、色彩、材质3个不同的设计角度分析传统宋锦的特征,探讨形式美法则在其设计中的运用,提炼出宋锦最有传承价值的元素。并通过对宋锦发展现状与面临困境的分析,提出对这一传统产品进行传承与发展的3种有效的方法:保留花型改色改材质、从运用于整件服装改为运用于局部,以及提炼色彩重新造型。研究结果可为面料设计师、染织设计师与服装设计师传承与发展传统元素提供理论指导。

The characteristics of traditional Song brocade were analyzed from three aspects:shape,color and material.The application of the principle of formal beauty in its design was discussed and the most valuable elements of traditional Song brocade were extracted.Based on the analysis of the current situation and predicament of Song brocade,three effective methods for the inheritance and development of this traditional product were proposed:keeping patterns but changing colors and materials,applying the whole garment to the parts,and distilling colors and remodeling.The research results can provide theoretical guidance for fabric designers,textile designers and fashion designers so that they can inherit and develop traditional elements.