传统盘扣造型效果及装饰效果的评价研究

Evaluation and Research on Modeling and Decoration Effect of Traditional Chinese Frog

综合传统盘扣相关文献研究和实物考证,选择棉、麻、丝3种不同材质的面料,用手工和车缝两种不同工艺制作不同款式的盘扣,利用主观评价法对制作的27个盘扣的造型效果分别打分,并通过SPSS软件对主观评价的结果进行方差分析,评价盘扣的造型效果,并进一步分析造型较好盘扣的装饰效果。结果表明,不同面料和制作方式会对不同款式盘扣的造型效果产生影响:丝绸制作的一字扣和有嵌心盘扣质感更好,棉麻制作的无嵌心盘扣饱满度效果更好,棉麻类琵琶扣采用手工缝制方法其饱满度效果更好;不同款式盘扣的装饰效果不同:对于样式简单的旗袍,花式盘扣在偏襟处的装饰效果更好,基础样式的一字扣在衣领处的装饰效果更好。结合盘扣的制作工时可为生产和设计提供依据。

In this paper, the literatures related to traditional Chinese frog and the physical textual research were synthesized. Cotton, linen and silk were selected as the raw materials to make different styles of Chinese frogs by hand or by sewing machine. The subjective assessment method was utilized to score the modeling effect of 27 frogs, and the results of the subjective evaluation were analyzed by ANOVA with SPSS software. The modeling effect of these Chinese frogs as well as the decoration effect were evaluated and analyzed. The results show that different fabrics and production methods would have an impact on the modeling effect of different styles of Chinese frogs. A one-clasp button made of silk and an embossed clasp button are better in texture. A non-embedded frog made of cotton and linen is better in terms of plumpness, while Pipa frog made of cotton and linen with hand sewing has the best effect on plumpness. The decorative effects of different styles of frogs are different. For a piece of cheongsam with simple style, fancy Chinese frog possesses good decorative effect on partial placket, while the one-clasp button with basic style shows the better decorative effect on neckline. By combining the production time of frogs, the basis can be provided for producers and designers.