1907年晚清学堂服制考

Research on “dressing etiquette of students” in 1907

1907年的学堂冠服制是近代中国第一个较为完整的学生服制条例。文章通过对一手历史文献的收集、整理,并结合传世图像资料对其衣制进行考释,认为其规定的礼服、讲堂服、操服、常服四种形制并未全部在新式教育环境中得到推广,以致清廷所期望的既能结合古礼又可发展体操的新式学生装也并未实现。但作为中国第一个学生服制,它奠定了近代校服发展的基础;不仅使西方操衣在学生群体中的穿着有了法令保障,还对时代风尚产生了影响;在塑造近代学生服饰形象的同时也促进了中国服饰的近代化。

“Dressing etiquette of students” in 1907 is the first relatively complete students’ clothes system in modern China. This paper analyzed this dressing etiquette based on collection and collation of historical documents and combined with images. It was found that the regulated four shapes of the dress, clothing in class, gym suit and casual wear were not all promoted in the new environment so that the new school wear which could both combine tradition and develop gymnastics expected by the Qing court was not realized. But as the first Chinese students’ clothes system, it laid the foundation for modern school uniform development. It not just made dressing of western gym suit have legal guarantee, but also influenced the fashion in that era and promoted the modernization of Chinese apparel while shaping modern students’ clothes.