十九世纪中期一个西南城市的饮食生活:以道光《贵阳府志》为中心

The Dietetic Life of a Southwest City in Mid-19th Century:A Study Based on the Daoguang Edition of Annals of Guiyang Prefecture

十九世纪中期,正是中国发生剧烈变化的时期。而地处西南的贵阳,人们很难感知到全国局势所发生的变化。在贵阳人的饮食生活中,仍然延续千百年来形成的食物结构,以山地作物为主。玉米、马铃薯、红薯等美洲作物的广泛传播与种植,也在型塑着贵阳人的饮食结构。贵州之米、鸡枞、刺梨、酒、茶等特色食品,开始得到时人的认可。贵阳为汉苗杂居之地,各民族饮食习俗异彩纷呈,多姿多彩。在一些地方,饮食超越了日常生活所需的范畴,被赋予了深刻的文化意义。而贵阳饮食最大的特色,则为一个"苦"字,有少盐之苦,亦有因地理气候、出产不多、时局不靖、官吏催逼、转运不便、积贮不多、赈济不力等原因而导致的乏食之苦。

The mid-19th century witnessed dramatic change of China, which, however, hardly influence the life of people lived in Guiyang, a city located in remote southwest China. Hence, the traditional dietetic habits which have been passed down for thousands of years still strongly preserved up to now. Guiyang people take the mountainous crops as their staple. Corn, potato, sweet potato, and other crops are widely planted in the area, and these crops also shape people's dietetic habit. At that time, Guizhou rice, chicken fir, prickly pear, alcohol, tea, and other specialty food begin to get recognized. Guiyang is a city inhabited by Han people and Miao (ethnic minorities) people, who contribute distinctive dietetic customs, making the whole dietetic life rich and colorful. In some cases, diet is given certain significance beyond the scope of daily life. While "bitter" could be regarded as the most prominent feature of Guiyang diet. The word "bitter" not only refers to the taste of bitter due to lack of salt, but also means the hardship of the food shortage caused by geography and climate element, short crop yield, political element, official press, transport inconvenience, small storage, poor relief, and so on.