现代中式风格男装设计初探——以肩部设计为例

Primary Research on the Design of Modern Chinese-style Men’s Clothing——A Case Study of Shoulder Design

中式男装品牌总体表现为设计能力单薄,技术含量不够高。为此,我们首先对什么是现代中国风格,如何来表现它,对男装设计是至关重要的,我们应该着眼于男装的肩部设计和造型,并处理好领肩关系、过肩关系、肩袖关系,这样基本上涵盖了全部的肩部设计内容。着眼点还可以在裁剪结构上做变化,围绕着内敛、柔和、圆曲的美学特征做文章。处理肩袖结构线的方式,难度要比常规的装袖高。因此,在设计生产上,准确地拿捏线条和结构,正确处理版型和空间的关系,这对设计师和板师都是一种挑战。因此,在肩部设计上体现现代中国风格的男装,更适合于中高档品牌的应用开发。

Generally speaking, Chinese Men’s brand is weak in ability of design and technology. Therefore, in the first place, we shall figure out what is the modern Chinese style and how to express it, which plays a vital role in the design of Men’s clothing. We shall focus on the design of shoulder and modeling of Men’s clothing. The design of shoulder includes the cutting of collar and shoulder, shoulders, shoulder and sleeves. Another focus is placed upon the aesthetic features, ranging from the introversion, softness and curve to the changes of cutting structure. Dealing with this kind of line of shoulder and sleeves is more difficult than conventional outfit sleeve. During the process of design and manufacture, it is a challenge for both designers and sample makers to deal with lines, structures, and relationship between pattern and space. Therefore, application of modern Chinese style to the design of shoulders is more suitable for medium-to-high end men’s brand.