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黄梅挑花在现代女装设计中的应用 被引量:8

Application of Huangmei Cross-stitch in modern women’s wear design
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摘要 黄梅挑花作为国家级非物质文化遗产具有独特的艺术魅力,但这门技艺现面临着“动态”传承的难题。文章采取田野调查、文献查阅、实物考证、设计实践等研究方法,通过文字描述和图片展示的方式系统地概括黄梅挑花的艺术特色及其与现代女装设计结合的可能性。研究认为:黄梅挑花图案的创新一方面可采用直接应用法在现代女装中进行穿越时空的嫁接设计,另一方面可采用解构重组法使其提取元素具有现代女装设计中的抽象感;图案色彩的创新可采用底布色彩提取设计法和图案色彩提取设计法,完成在现代女装上的创新应用;工艺的应用方法有材质创新法、调整绣线股数法、多种工艺组合法,都可实现传统与现代时尚的对接。 As national intangible cultural heritage, Huangmei Cross-stitch has unique artistic charm, but this art is now facing the problem of “dynamic” inheritance. Through field investigation, literature review, physical research, design practice and other research methods, this paper systematically summarizes the artistic features of Huangmei Cross-stitch and the possibility of combination with modern women’s wear design through text description and picture display. It is believed that: on the one hand, the pattern innovation of Huangmei Cross-stitch can be directly applied in modern women’s wear through time and space grafting design;on the other hand, deconstruction and reorganization method can be used to make its extraction elements have abstract feeling in modern women’s wear design. The pattern color innovation of Huangmei Cross-stitch can adopt the method of color extraction design of the bottom cloth and the method of color extraction design of the pattern to complete the innovative application in modern women’s clothes. The technology application method of Huangmei Cross-stitch includes material innovation, adjustment of the number of embroidered threads, combination of a variety of process. All can realize the connection of traditional and modern fashion.
作者 李坤 李强 叶洪光 LI Kun;LI Qiang;YE Hongguang(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)
出处 《丝绸》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2019年第7期70-76,共7页 Journal of Silk
基金 教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(17YJCZH079) 湖北省教育厅人文社科基金青年项目(17Q086) 武汉纺织大学国家级项目培育计划项目(武纺大科[2016]3号)
关键词 黄梅挑花 民间工艺 女装设计 创新应用 保护传承 Huangmei Cross-stitch folk handicraft women’s wear design innovative application protection and inheritance
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