吐鲁番出土文书和面衣所见波斯锦

Persian Brocades in Documents and Face Covers in Turfan

吐鲁番阿斯塔那古墓群是西晋至唐朝高昌居民的公共墓地,墓中出土了大量的纺织品文物,所出文书中亦有很多与纺织品相关的记载。文书中有四件明确提到了波斯锦,年代跨度为北朝晚期至唐朝,或用于制作面衣和被褥,或作为财富象征随死者入葬。记载了波斯锦面衣的两件衣物疏都属唐朝,而出土的唐朝38件面衣中有32件使用了联珠纹锦,并以斜纹纬锦为主。本文经过名物对比研究得出结论:波斯锦应为联珠纹纬锦,其中经线加S捻的中原式联珠纹纬锦为何稠仿制的波斯锦,而经线加Z捻的中亚式联珠纹纬锦为吐鲁番文书所记载和当地人所认知的波斯锦,其图案受波斯艺术影响,但不一定产于波斯。

The Astanan Cemetery in Turfan served as a cemetery for the descendants of Chinese settlers in Gaochang from the Western Jin Dynasty to the Tang dynasty. A large number of textile relics were found in the tombs and the documents have many records about textiles. There are four documents that explicitly mentioned Persian brocades, which were used either for face covers and bedding or represented the wealth of the tomb owner. The two burial inventories recorded that the face covers made of Persian brocades were all dated to the Tang dynasty and 32 out of 38 pieces of Tang dynasty unearthed were made of brocades with the patterns of pearl roundels, which is mainly twill weft samite. By comparing the records with the findings, we conclude that Persian brocades are samite with pearl roundels. Samite with S twisted warps is He Chou’s imitation of Persian brocades, while Samite with Z twisted warps is the Persian silk recorded in Turfan documents and known by the residents in Trufan during that period. The latter was definitely influenced by the Persian art, but it is not necessarily produced in Persia.