巴斯尔裙撑的结构特点及其复原研究

Restoration Study on the Structural Characteristics of Bustle

作为西方19世纪中后期女装的重要构成部件,巴斯尔裙撑所突出强调的臀部造型特点,是“S”型女装廓形的重要构成元素。为探究巴斯尔裙撑的结构构成原理,本文选取美国大都会博物馆、英国维多利亚与阿尔伯博物馆等馆藏资料,对巴斯尔裙撑的结构类型进行梳理,并通过对骨架型、填充型及褶裥型三大类巴斯尔裙撑进行复原,总结出其结构构成形式和工艺制作方法。巴斯尔裙撑以其丰富的结构类型在现代设计中仍时常被借鉴,并在服装廓形的塑造上发挥着巨大的作用。

As the most important component of Western women’s clothing in 1850s, bustle has a far-reaching influence on modern “S” shape of women’s dress by highlighting the hip shape characteristics. In order to study the structure and technology of bustle, this paper selects the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of the United States, the Victoria and Albert Museum of the United Kingdom and so on, briefly sorts out the structure types of bustle, and carried out the restoration and summarize the structural principles of three types of bustle: stent type, stuffed type and tuck type. With its rich structure type and exquisite manufacturing technology, bustle can give more inspiration for modern fashion design in dress shaping.