畲族传统服饰的文化功能及变迁——基于敕木山村的实证调查研究

Cultural Functions and Changes of She’s Traditional Costume :Based on an Empirical Investigation of Chimushan Village

畲族传统服饰是畲族文化的重要载体,其特点主要体现在服饰的颜色比较单一、花纹独具畲族特色和制作工艺复杂三个方面,并具有实用功能、艺术功能和教育及教化功能。当代的畲族服饰特点主要体现在颜色五彩斑斓、花纹绚丽多彩和流水线制作日渐取代传统手工工艺,且具有个性化功能、标签性功能和文化展演功能。通过实地调研、文献资料和访谈基础上对传统服饰文化功能变迁的原因进行分析,主要有三个原因:畲族对服饰观念的改变;外来文化对畲族民族文化的影响;畲族人民审美情趣的转变。

She's traditional costume is an important carrier in She's culture. Their characteristics are mainly reflected in the relatively simple colors, unique patterns and complicated fabrication technologies, which have practical, artistic and educational functions. She's contemporary costume has richer colors and patterns, and the streamline production is gradually replacing traditional handicrafts. They have individualized, symbolic and cultural displaying functions. Based on field research, literature study and interviews, this paper analyzes the reasons for the changes of cultural functions of She's traditional costumes. There are three main reasons:first, the change of She's clothing concept;secondly, the influence of foreign culture to the She's ethnic culture;finally, the transformation of the She's aesthetic taste.