西藏昌都藏族妇女服饰的形式构成与文化意义研究

The Formal Composition and Cultural Significance of Tibetan Women’s Costumes in Chamdo Region

昌都藏族妇女服饰在款式、形成和发展中受自然条件、劳动生产和文化交流的影响,文化上的综合性、丰富性特征在昌都藏族妇女服饰上显而易见。昌都地方的饰品种类繁多且雍容华丽,与其它康区饰品相比,头饰和耳饰较为典型。昌都市下辖10个县,地域幅员辽阔,其饰品不仅几乎涵盖了康区典型的饰品,也具有自身独有的特色。昌都妇女服饰文化除有它本身所具有的质地、形式、图案和颜色这些物态的“能指”表现方式外,还具有“能指”之外的服饰符号的表征,包括珠宝使用的数字与信仰传达、叙述、祈求的愿望、情感的宣泄等各种“所指”信息。综合“能指”的表现形式和“所指”的蕴含意义,起着一种民族标识的功能。

The style,formation and development of Tibetan women’s costumes in Chamdo are influenced by natural conditions,labor production and cultural exchanges.The comprehensive and rich cultural characteristics are evident in the clothing of Tibetan women in Chamdo.The Chamdo area has a wide variety of accessories.Comparing with other Kampa regions accessories,headdress and ear ornaments are more typical.The Chamdo jewelry,which has a vast territory of 10 counties under its jurisdiction,not only covers almost typical accessories in Kampa area,but also has its own unique features.The Chamdo women’s clothing culture,in addition to its own expression of the texture,form,pattern,and color of these objects,also has the representation of clothing symbols.Including the numbers used in jewelry and beliefs to convey,describe,pray for wishes,emotional catharsis and other content information.The comprehensive expression of the form and the implication of the content play a function of national identity.