贵州花溪苗族女装上衣结构与挑花研究

STUDY ON THE STRUCTURE AND CROSS EMBROIDERY PATTERN IN THE WOMEN’ S GARMENT OF MIAO NATIONALITY IN HUAXI,GUIZHOU PROVINCE

贵州花溪苗族服饰历久弥新、华丽耀眼,蕴含着本民族悠久的历史变迁和浓郁的文化信息。文章以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏的花溪苗族女装上衣为研究对象,结合博物馆采风纪实资料,从传统服饰形制、女装上衣结构、挑花工艺三个方面对花溪苗族女装进行研究归纳。总结出女装上衣独特的领子结构和技艺精湛的挑花针法、纹饰。花溪苗族服饰是宝贵的民族文化财富,具有传承价值,传承下来的古老服装形制和精湛的挑花工艺是花溪地区苗族妇女的智慧结晶,对现代设计具有启发作用。

The Miao nationality costumes in Huaxi,Guizhou province are colorful and gorgeous,bearing the historical changes and rich cultural information of the nation's hardships.The article takes the Miao nationality in Huaxi women's blouse of the Ethnic Costume Museum of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology as the research object,and combines the museum's documentary data to study the Miao in Huaxi wear from three aspects:traditional costume shape,blouse structure and cross embroidery.Summarize the unique collar structure and the skillful cross embroidery and patterns of the blouse.The Miao in Huaxi costume is a valuable national cultural wealth,with inheritance value.The ancient costume shape and exquisite flower cross embroidery passed down are the wisdom of Miao women in Huaxi area,which is inspiring to modern design.