故宫院藏清代服饰类文物的整形技术与缝补工艺研究——以清戏服“粉色缎绣折枝花纹宫衣”为例

Research on Plastic Surgery Technology and Sewing Technique of Qing Dynasty Costumes in the Palace Museum——Taking the Pink Embroidery Pattern Costumes of the Qing Dynasty as an Example

故宫博物院院藏大量清代戏曲类文物,包括戏曲服饰、盔头、道具等,品类繁多。这些文物在历经百年后,出现了老化、褪色、脏污、变形、褶皱、破损、断裂等诸多问题。在这些常见病害中有些问题是自然规律、是不可逆的,而无法通过保护修复的手段复原,比如纤维老化、褪色;但有些诸如脏污、变形、褶皱、破损等的病害,是可以通过科学的保护修复,使文物恢复相对健康的状态,从而延缓文物的寿命。文章以一件清代戏曲宫衣的修复过程来探讨此类文物保护修复应用的方法和传统工艺技术,以及科技检测在修复过程中的作用。

The Palace Museum has a large collection of Qing Dynasty opera relics,including opera costumes,helmets and props.After a hundred years,these cultural relics have experienced many problems such as aging,fading,dirt,deformation,wrinkles,breakage,and breakage.Some of these common diseases cannot be recovered by means of protection and repair,such as fiber aging and fading,because they are natural and irreversible.However,some diseases such as dirt,deformation,wrinkles,and breakage can restore the cultural relics to a relatively healthy state through scientific protection and restoration,hereby delaying the life of cultural relics.This paper explores the methods and traditional techniques of such cultural relic protection and restoration,and the role of scientific testing in the repair process.