整片式女上衣的优化设计分析

OPTIMIZATION DESIGN OF THE THE WHOLE-PIECE WOMEN’S JACKET

现在的服装基本是为了满足着装舒适性、合体性和独特性的部件式设计,衣服由衣身前片、后片、衣领、袖身等各个互相独立的部件构成。而东亚传统的服装衣身结构和形状简单,衣身、袖子、衣领等部分经常连裁,有时甚至整身衣服只由一整片衣片构成,也就是所谓的整片式服装,但其可穿性依旧优良。然而,现今服装业对整片式服装设计的应用稀少、学界对整片式结构的研究也十分有限。通过对日本设计师三宅一生的一款创意整片式女上衣进行研究,利用2D和3DCAD模拟、还原结构图与样衣效果,进而分析该女式上衣结构的设计原理,针对各个部位设计的合理性、是否能进行优化,探索非部件式的整片式服装结构在现代服装设计中的应用价值。

Nowadays garments are usually based on assembled design in order to meet the demanding of clothing comfort,fitness and unique appearance. The clothes are composed of separate parts such as the front piece,the back piece, the collar and the sleeve. In contrast,traditional east Asian garments tend to have simple body structure and shape,The body pieces,sleeves,collar and other parts are often connected. sometimes the whole garment consists of only one piece, which is called the whole-piece clothing,but the wearability is still excellent. However, today's clothing industry is sparsely applied to the whole-piece clothing design,and the academic research on the whole-piece structure is also very limited. Through the study of a whole-piece women’ s jacket by Japanese designer Issey Miyake,this paper uses 2D and 3D CAD to simulate and restore garment structure and sample, analyzes the design principle of this women’ s jacket structure,the rationality of each part and whether it can be optimized,and explores the value of whole-pieces garment structure in modern garment design.