以管窥豹,虹彩闪烁——从第九届中国珠宝首饰设计与制作大赛获奖作品看欧洲首饰艺术设计的影响

Iridescent Flashing from a Limited View: Seeing the Influence of European Jewelry Art Design from the Prize Winning Works of the 9th Chinese Jewelry Design and Making Competition

欧洲首饰艺术设计是世界首饰艺术设计发展的摇篮,对中国当代首饰艺术设计的形成和发展具有重要影响。本文以中国珠宝首饰设计与制作大赛第九届获奖作品为例,以管窥豹,具体分析了欧洲不同时期首饰艺术设计风格在获奖作品中的体现,探讨了欧洲不同时期首饰艺术设计风格对中国当代首饰设计影响的差异及其原因。对不同作品的艺术设计元素的分析显示,获奖作品中受新艺术运动时期首饰艺术设计风格的影响最明显,而文艺复兴时期首饰艺术设计风格的影响较少,显示了珠宝首饰设计风格的传承和扩散与社会发展的阶段性及文化交流融通的密切相关。中国珠宝首饰设计与制作大赛第九届的获奖作品体现了中国当代首饰艺术设计的最高水平,充分反映出我国当代珠宝首饰设计师们在与欧洲珠宝首饰艺术家学习交流多年后,已逐步走向成熟,但在个性创新和风格系统化等方面仍存在较大的进步空间。

The European jewelry art design is the cradle of the world’s jewelry art design, and has important implications for the formation and development of Chinese contemporary jewelry art design. This paper takes the winning works of the 9 th Chinese Jewelry Design and Making Competition as examps to analyze the embodiment of the European jewelry art design styles in the winning works. Based on this, the author discusses the different effects that the diverse European jewelry art design styles in each period have on contemporary Chinese jewelry design and the reasons why they affect it. Analysis of the art design elements of different works shows that jewelry art design style in the Art Nouveau period has the strongest impact on award-winning works, while the jewelry art design style in the Renaissance period appeares least. It is illustrated that the inheritance and spread of jewelry design style are closely related to cultural exchange and social development. The winning works of the 9 th Chinese Jewelry Design and Making competition reflect the highest level of Chinese contemporary jewelry art design and it fully reflects that Chinese contemporary jewelry designers have gradually become mature after years of learning and communicating with European jewelry artists. However, it is true that there is still much room for improvement in the personality innovation and systematization of style.