爵士时代服饰的变迁与意蕴——以《了不起的盖茨比》为例析

The Changes and Implications of Clothing in the Jazz Age——A Case Study of The Great Gatsby

菲茨杰拉德的代表作《了不起的盖茨比》真实地再现了爵士时代服饰的变迁。从物质文化理论的当代文化批评视角进行分析,可以发掘出这些服饰变迁背后的深层文化内涵。即小说中的现代服饰作为一种文化符号,生动地透射出爵士时代美国从传统向现代社会转型过程中文化的变迁。服饰随着现代生活方式、性别观念、价值观和道德观的变化而改变。这反映了爵士时代人们对传统的性别规范、价值观念与伦理道德的反叛。分析小说中服饰的变迁与意蕴对加深理解菲茨杰拉德的作品、爵士时代的本质以及该时代的美国文学提供了新的视角,具有重要意义。

Fitzgerald’s representative work The Great Gatsby truthfully reflects the changes of the clothing in the Jazz Age. From the perspective of cultural approach to material culture, we can discover the deep cultural connotation behind these changes in clothing. That is to say, the modern clothing in the novel, as a cultural sign, vividly reflects the social and cultural changes of the Jazz Age during the transition from the traditional society to the modern one in the United States. Clothing changes with the transformation of modern life style, gender concept, values and morals. This reflects people’s rebellion against traditional gender norms, values and morals in the Jazz Age. Analyzing the changes and implications of clothing in The Great Gatsby is of great significance to deepen the understanding of Fitzgerald’s works, the nature of the Jazz Age and the American literature of that time.