变迁与传承——云南河口县红头瑶传统服饰调查及思考

Changes and Inheritance:Survey on Red Head Yao’s Traditional Costumes

文章以云南省河口县湖广、马鹿塘和水头三个聚居点红头瑶为研究对象,结合文献资料,借鉴田野调查法和访谈法,考察其传统服饰现状。云南河口县红头瑶传统服饰在近百年中因生存环境和生计方式的变化而发生变迁,基本呈现了三代服饰样式。服饰形制因1960年代他们从大山深处迁徙至谷底以及2000年后经济状况的极大改善而大变,新的服饰不仅适应河谷湿热的气候,而且趋向简便和实用。服饰图案是一个民族的标志,他们因长期封闭生活在大山深处,人口少而生产力低,服饰图案保留了瑶族古老的图纹而尚未创新,即使迁至谷底,民族自尊心使其沿袭古老图纹而少有创新。"五色"贯穿于服饰始终,但色彩的纯度和亮度随着生存境遇的改善,效果显现出由冷变暖,由黯淡向明丽的转变。服饰的变化与稳定不仅隐含了该支系复杂的历史过往,还显现了他们独特的社会心理。文章同时简要探讨红头瑶民族服饰的传承问题。

This paper investigates the traditional costumes of Red Head Yao at Huguang,Malutang and Shuitou three areas in HeKou County,Yunnan Province,combining with the literature and reference and the field investigation and interviewing method.The traditional costumes of Red Head Yao in Hekou County are unique among the Yao people in China.In the past 70 years,two changes have taken place and three generations of costumes have shown.This uniqueness is not only reflected that the pattern retains the ancient pattern of the Yao people but also have few innovations.It is also reflected that the costumes’system is from complex to simple and the color of clothing from dim to bright.The changes and stability of clothing not only implies the complex historical past of this branch,but also shows their unique social psychology.At the same time,this paper briefly discusses the inheritance of Red Head Yao’s costumes.