“滑”“葵”考——兼论葵菜的勾芡作用及古代勾芡的文化内涵

The exploration on “lubricating” and “malva”——on thickening function of malva and the cultural connotation of food thickening in ancient times

早在周代,厨师就以堇、荁、枌、榆及米汁作为勾芡制滑的原料,而葵菜的勾芡作用更为周人所重视。自明代后,“葵”的概念已发生变化,水葵、紫葵、落葵等葵类食材皆为制滑原料。先民勾芡制滑,旨在养老,一是满足老人“以滑养窍”的养生需求,二是满足老人对厚味的需求。

Tracing back to Zhou Dynasty, cooks used Viola verecunda A. Gray, Viola moupinensis , white elm, elm and rice syrup as raw materials to thicken and lubricate the dishes. Malva vegetables was especially valued by the people in Zhou Dynasty. Since Ming Dynasty, the malva, such as Brasenia schreberi J. F. Gme, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens H. Wendl, and Basella alba L became the raw materials for food thickening agents. The ancestors thickened and lubricated the foods in order to meet either the health needs as ‘lubricating and raising the orifices’ or the stronger taste for the elders.