杭罗起源的研究

Studies on the Origin of Hangzhou Leno

[研究意义]针对杭罗起源的问题,目前纺织史学界并没有统一的观点.[研究方法]运用历史文献与纺织品考古文物相印证以及田野考察的研究方法,[研究结果与结论]得到杭罗组织式的罗织物实物至迟在五代十国时期就已经出现,其工艺可追溯至中国新石器时代晚期的结论.研究表明:一方面,从织物组织结构上看,杭罗式的罗织物属于固定绞组罗的一种重要形式,相对于流行数千年的链式罗而言,它明显是一种技术上的退化;另一方面,从杭罗产生的原因上看,它的产生不仅与织造技术密切相关,而且还受到政治、经济、文化等的深刻影响.

There is no unified view on the origin of Hangzhou leno in the textile history field at present.Based on the research methods of historical documents, textile archaeological relics and field investigation, it is concluded that the leno fabric of Hangzhou Leno weave had appeared in the period of the Five Dynasties and Ten States at the latest, and its technology can be traced back to the late period of Neolithic age in China. The research shows that: On the one hand,seeing from fabric structure, Hangzhou leno belongs to a kind of important form of fixed group warp leno, which is obviously a technical degradation compared with the chain leno which has been popular for thousands of years. On the other hand, seeing from the perspective of the reasons for the emergence of Hangzhou leno,it is not only closely related to weaving technology, but also deeply influenced by politics, economy and culture.