清代天仙洞衣特征表征及成因研究

The Characterization of 1st Degree Taoist Priest’s Robe in Qing Dynasty and the Reason Analysis

[研究意义]清代天仙洞衣不仅考虑到服装的审美性、舒适性与功能性的要求,还保留了因满清入关而遭重创的汉族服饰文化,在道教发展途中实现了哲学思想与民俗文化的融合.[研究方法]以国内外博物馆及民间收藏的69件清代天仙洞衣为研究对象,采用实地考察和文献考证相结合的方法,文章对清代天仙洞衣的造型、结构、装饰与工艺特征进行表征,并尝试对这些特征一一进行成因分析.[研究结果与结论]研究表明:天仙洞衣是道教斋醮科仪中具有程式化特征与鲜明文化内涵的服装载体,在造型与结构上遵循了寡欲尚简的宗旨,在装饰与工艺上寄寓着长生成仙的期盼,与宗教信仰和教义传播息息相关.

The 1st degree Taoist priest's robe not only takes into account the aesthetic, comfort and functional requirements of the garment, but also retains the Han costume culture that was hit hard by the rule of Manchu, and has realized the integration of philosophical thoughts and folk culture in the development of Taoism. The 69 1st degree Taoist priest's robes in Qing dynasty collected from folks and museums at home and abroad are taken as the research object in this paper. Through literature research and field investigation, this paper analyzed the modeling, structure, decorative and production process characteristics of 1st degree Taoist priest's robe in Qing dynasty, and explored the causes of these characteristics. The research finds that 1st degree Taoist priest's robe is a clothing carrier with formula features and distinct cultural connotations in Taoist rites. The robe follows the principle of simplicity in shape and structure, embodies the longevity expectation in the decoration and production process and is also closely related to the spread of religious beliefs and doctrines.