“四观”论苗族服饰的发展瓶颈

"Siguan" on the bottleneck of the development of Miao costumes

苗族服饰的发展已经面临着严峻的传承危机,本着求真、求实、求源的原则,本研究分析其传承危机存在的原因主要有“四观”:一是“社会发展观”,生产力的发展为苗族服饰传统手工工艺过渡到如今的工业化生产提供了可能;二是“民众审美观”,冕服制度和图腾崇拜限制了人们的审美,随着物质的丰富和思想的解放,人们的审美变得更加多元、自主和自由;三是“民众择业观”,苗族人民面朝黄土背朝天的时代已不再,广大苗族人民进入城市,加入到城市建设之中,苗绣等传统项目几近丢失;四是“妇女地位观”,以前苗家女她们从小就开始学习女红,如今也开始接受教育,妇女与男人一样都在为适应社会发展各尽所能。

The development of Miao costumes has already faced a severe crisis of inheritance.Based on the principles of seeking truth,seeking truth and seeking resources,the reasons for the existence of the crisis are mainly caused by the following four views:First,the concept of social development.The development of productivity has made it possible for the traditional craftsmanship of Miao costumes to transition to today’s industrial production.Secondly,“people’s aesthetics”,the system of obedience and totem worship limit people’s aesthetic concept,with the richness of material and the liberation of thought.The people’s aesthetic concept has become more Yuan,independent and free;the third is the“people’s choice of business concept”,the era of the Miao people facing the loess back to the sky is no longer,the vast number of Miao people enter the city,make contributions to urban construction,Miao embroidery,etc.Traditional projects are almost abandoned;the fourth is the“Women’s Status quo”.In the past,Miao women began to learn female red since childhood,but nowadays they are influenced by books.Women and men are doing their best to adapt to social development.