丝光羊毛和新型聚酯复丝混纺毛条条染复精梳工艺探讨

Discussion on dying and recombing technologies of mercerized wool and polyester multifilaments blended top

以高支丝光羊毛与新型细旦聚酯复丝(特莱维拉纤维)结合开发的织物,以特有的细腻、光泽柔和、悬垂性强等特点,使织物具有绒的柔软、丝的飘逸及独特的产品风格。针对高支丝光羊毛与特莱维拉纤维混纺织物静电现象严重,后道加工较困难的问题,阐述了丝光羊毛和特莱维拉纤维混纺毛条条染复精梳生产技术中应注意的要点,及在染色中的注意事项,说明了复洗应根据纤维的导电性能有针对性处理。结果表明:应根据不同纤维上色特性,制定合理的染色和处理工艺,并合理控制回潮率以解决混纺过程中的静电问题,同时,提出了精梳的关键是增加丝光羊毛的抱合力,消除特莱维拉纤维的静电,制定合理的精梳工艺,使纤维在前道工序能够梳理充分,精梳毛网清晰、后道针梳条干均匀、毛粒合格。

The new product produced by combining mercerized wool with high yarn count and fine denier polyester multi-filaments shows outstanding smoothness, softness and drapability, endowing the products with good handle characteristics. However, the electrostatic phenomenon is the main problem influencing spinning and weaving of the product, therefore, the points that should be attention in top dying and recombing mercerized wool and trevira fiber blended top was introduced in this paper. It was noted that fabrics have different characteristics, when the mercerized wool was dyed, suitable ways should be made according to their characteristics, also, the moisture regain should be controlled to solve the problem of static electric after backwashing. The key to carding process was to increase the cohesive force of mercerized wool, eliminate the static electricity of the trevilla fabrics. By formulating a reasonable combing process, the fibers can be ensured to fully carded in the preceding production, the combed web was clear, the fine hairs were evenness and well-distributed in the back-end production and neps were qualified.