正反捻锦纶弹力双层织物生产实践

Production Practice of Nylon Elastic Double-layered Fabric with Z and S Twist

为解决普通喷气织机难以织造弹力净面、轻薄织物的难题,分析采用不同捻向经纱造成反光'视觉差'形成花型,同时采用弹力锦纶和普通弹力棉纤维两种异纬双层织物设计增加织物厚重,织造CJ 11.7(紧)(Z)+CJ 11.7(紧)(S)/N 140(40 D)(上)+C 14.5(40 D)(下)92.1弹力四小点双层织物品种时,其经纬纱的质量要求及不同捻向纱线的整经、浆纱、穿筘,不同纬纱引纬织造等采取的工艺措施和具体参数。指出:采用该方法和工艺后,普通喷气织机织造正反捻弹力双层织物,织机效率不小于87%,下机一等品率为96.6%,面料呈现Z/S不同捻向花纹,且具有良好弹性,能满足市场个性化、功能性要求。

In order to solve the problem with the conventional air-jet looms failing to weave elastic fabrics with clean and light textures,analysis is done to the quality requirements of warp and weft yarns and the process measures and specific parameters in warping,sizing,reeding processes of different warping and wefting when weaving elastic four-point double-layered fabric CJ 11.7(tight)(Z)+CJ 11.7(tight)(S)/N 140(40 D)(top)+C 14.5(40 D)(bottom)92.1,which use the methods of the pattern of reflective'vision difference'caused by different twist of warps,and the design of elastic nylon and ordinary elastic cotton double-layered fabrics with different weft yarn to increase the thickness of the fabrics.It is pointed out that using the method and process,the conventional air-jet looms can weave the elastic double-layered fabric with Z and S twist,the loom efficiency amounts to 87%,and the first-class product rate accounts for 96.6%,the fabrics show Z/S patterns in different twist directions with good elasticity,which can meet the individualized and functional requirements of the market.